FC Unterstrass - Zurich Football

Having not watched a live match since the Belgrade Derby in February, it was amazing to see a sunny Sunday morning game at FC Unterstrass, Zurich last weekend.

I came across the club whilst out on a walk, took a few photos of the pitch, and tagged them on Instagram when posting. I was lucky enough to receive a message back from Reto, board member and resident club photographer, who kindly invited me down to Sunday's game.

I arrived in the early morning mist, having walked past elderly couples shuffling down the quiet streets to the sound of chiming church bells. On a slightly different Sunday morning pilgrimage myself, I was greeted at the ground by Reto and the club President Christoph. They talked me through Unterstrass' proud 99 year history and their take on the Zurich football scene, breaking flow only to greet the regular fans with (covid-friendly) first pumps and 'Gruezi's', the Swiss-German hello.

Misty morning as the away team walk out onto the field.

"Zurich isn't traditionally a football city... People find other things to do here"
"We have small football pockets around the country, in Basel, Bern and St Gallen, and some of the oldest clubs in the world"
"Did you know Barcelona was founded by a Swiss FC Basel fan? That's why their colours are red and blue"

They spoke proudly of the club's community spirit, running 21 teams across genders and age groups, and shared their ambition to "keep things as they are, and stay true to our roots", a refreshing perspective. The men's first team, who we were there to see, play in the 6th tier of Swiss football, and currently topped their table. With impending re-lockdown in Zurich, and the probable cancellation of amateur sport, this was set to be the final game for a while, they suspected.

A crowd of 50+ was there in the mist at kick off, with both hot coffees and cold beers clutched and sipped at with equal vigour, despite the 10.15am kick off time. By the time the sun came out at half time, 150+ huddled on the small terrace or spread themselves around the field. The smell of sausages from the newly lit BBQ filled the air, while fans, friends, families and passers practised socially distanced mingling.

"The President's father comes every week. He played for the club back in the 1960's", shared Reto, pointing to a cigar-smoking gentlemen in bright red trainers, wandering around nodding polite Gruezi's to passers by.

An end to end game full of action ended 0-0, despite numerous clear cut chances at both ends. The league topping home team played their opposite numbers propping up the table, but neither could break the deadlock. Fast paced throughout, the crowd watched on from all corners. Old timers huddled behind the goal whilst younger groups of friends drank beer like water on the halfway line, cigarette and cigar smoke occasionally distracting me from the smell of the Bratwurst.

Fans told me stories of their youth teams (one of which the evening before had won promotion), and of what the club means to its local community, from the youngest kids to the oldest veterans. The coach of the successful team, Urs, told stories of his football pilgrimages around Germany, befriending Bundesliga fans and his deep rooted love of the game. As the game continued, in line with the times, the President himself took a full lap of the supporters, clipboard in hand. The diverse range of fans all signed their names and numbers in the name of COVID tracking and tracing, muttered greetings and musings on the state of the game exchanged as the action continued.

At full time, as I attempted to order a well deserved Chopfab (Swiss ‘Bright’ Lager, which translates to ‘beheading’...) in the club house, I was left struggling and embarrassed in my broken (or non-existent) Swiss German. Standing cash-less and clueless when they didn't take card, Christoph the President slipped to the front of the queue to save the day, handing over 5 Francs, refusing the change offered and smiling as he exited. "He's the boss, so it's okay", shared the bar lady. It's not everyday you get bought a beer by a Club President... And I am now eternally in debt to Christoph and FC Unterstrass. A reason to come back soon.

A huge thank you to Reto, Christoph, Urs and everyone who welcomed me on Sunday. A fitting return to live football (before it was taken away again), and a reminder that the most beautiful form of the game is played on tiny pitches in local neighbourhoods, not in shiny stadiums or on television screens.

What better way to prove this point than through Reto’s kind donation of two incredible images from Sunday - an aerial drone shot of the field with Zurich’s lake and hills in the distance, and a beautifully autumnal on-field shot.

FC Unterstrass in its northern Zurich neighbourhood, with the lake and hills in the distance - @retoschlatter

FC Unterstrass’ skilful winger leaps for the ball, the home kit fading into the autumnal backdrop @retoschlatter