Keen to dig deeper into why India holds this status, and more importantly, what can be done to awaken the giant from its slumber, I was lucky enough to be introduced to Anjali Shah from the All India Football Federation (AIFF).
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Sharing a series of untold stories from around the world of football through interviews, articles and photography.
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Tucked away down a typically chaotic Mumbai side street in Colaba, OSCAR’s headquarters were full to the brim, a whole host of meetings and conversations taking place as I arrived. As Ashok began to tell his story, and the story of the foundation, I could see very quickly this was about far more than just football.
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I instantly made the comparison with cricket, wondering how another sport (arguably more complicated and less accessible than football), had managed to transcend the layers of Indian society to become the powerhouse it is today. This was clearly a familiar question to Rohit and Mangesh, who simultaneously smiled and sighed before launching into their responses.
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The Cooperage Ground is nestled in amongst parks and expensive property in the heart of ‘town’, and the view from its sizeable (but empty) bleachers was a fascinating one. Architecturally, Colaba itself was heavily influenced by the British, with a walk around the local ‘Oval Park’ reminding me more of Oxford or Cambridge than India. Games of schoolboy cricket were taking place as Victorian clock towers and school buildings lined the park’s perimeter. Games of schoolboy cricket, I might add, with far more spectators than joined me in the stands for the MDFA fixture.
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When you dig a little deeper into the status quo, its clear that many within Indian football are very aware of its various challenges and pitfalls. But so many also speak to the limitless potential and exciting future of the game, almost the inevitability of its rise.
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Growing up in England, it was impossible to ignore the impact that football has across so many layers of culture and society. I was always intrigued not only by the stars, goals and league tables of the Premier League, but also by the stories and experiences of lower league and grassroots football, and their eccentric and ritualistic nature.
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This quest for an Indian football shirt did not go unnoticed by colleagues and friends. One suggested that whilst local football culture in Mumbai was only just emerging, in the state of Goa it was a thriving force. My friend was himself Goan in origin, and boasted a collection of over 10 FC Goa shirts of his own, one of which he kindly donated to me in the last week of my trip.
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Having collected a local shirt in every city I’ve visited over the last few years (as part of a growingly expensive but satisfying habit), I felt I must be able to find one during my six weeks. The crest of the newly founded (2014) Mumbai City FC was modern and crisp, featuring the castled top of the Gateway to India, and beneath it a train carriage representing the city’s railways.
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This sparked my interest, and further googling revealed a glimmer of celebrity and known entity in the Indian league. Freddie Ljungberg had played for Mumbai a few years previously as their first landmark signing, and fellow Gunner Robert Pires turned out for FC Goa. Brazilian legend Zico was Goa’s manager during my time in Mumbai, and his countryman Roberto Carlos finished his illustrious career at Delhi Dynamos.
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