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As I continued this research, my one frustration was the distance between these stories and facts and my physical experience of India and the sport. Aside from a few games of (incredibly hot) 5 a side football and a series of half-drunken insightful chats watching games with friends and colleagues, my experience of the sport and culture in India was minimal. 

The chance to return to India came along in March 2018, and with it the opportunity to actively seek out these stories and experiences of football. I set about (even more so than usual), dropping football into almost every conversation I held, trying to glean any nuggets of information or opinion on offer. I also wanted to see for myself what football looks and feels like in India, and how it affects the lives of those who play, watch, organise and enjoy the sport. 

More specifically, my aim was to find out more about what is being (or could be) done to help raise the profile and impact of the game, and ultimately what it will take for India to build a global football legacy over the coming years.

A hoarding outside Mumbai’s Cooperage Ground.

When you dig a little deeper into the status quo, its clear that many within Indian football are very aware of its various challenges and pitfalls. But so many also speak to the limitless potential and exciting future of the game, almost the inevitability of its rise. 

It’s this intertwining balance of frustration and optimism that makes it so exciting. During the trip I spoke to and met with a range of people involved in its evolution, and had experiences that helped to shape my first perspectives on the state of play. These are shared and discussed in the following articles – hopefully the first of many as this journey continues.